The art of wandering
Autumn, with its lower temperatures and gorgeous light, is the ideal time to slow down and savour our towns like Evandale, Cygnet and Penguin. Take your time with these insider tips from in-the-know locals.
Evandale
Picturesque Evandale may be only a 15-minute drive out of Launceston but it feels like another world and another time, full of quaint surprises. From Glover-esque landscapes to quirky festivals and great coffee, resident Jeff McClintock reckons his National Trust-classified historic town has everything.
“We just love Evandale because it's a quaint and quirky village full of charm with beautiful historic houses and lovely gardens, and it's just a nice size village to walk around,” says Jeff, an Evandale resident of 25 years, a founder of the local Verandah Music Festival and the Riders and Races Co-ordinator of the National Penny Farthing Championship, held in mid-February. “It’s nice and flat and it just kind of reveals itself gently, which is something that is best appreciated on foot.”
You can pick up a brochure for a self-guided heritage walk from the visitor centre, or take Jeff’s suggestion of simply wandering down the main drag, Russell Street: “There’s some lovely little boutique shops there. Lake Leather is an absolute go-to place and Ingleside Cafe is the pick for a coffee or morning tea, especially when it’s a nice day to sit out in the courtyard.
“The Clarendon Arms is fantastic for meals and has a really nice beer garden area. As you walk down towards the market, you go past the Harry Murray statue; he was a soldier who was born in Evandale and fought in both World War I and World War II. In World War I, he was the most highly decorated soldier in the entire British empire. Further along, there’s a bronze statue of John Glover, the colonial artist considered by many people to have been the father of landscape painting in Australia.”
For a nature fix after your town time, Jeff suggests heading down to the local river: “It’s about a kilometre or so from the village down to the river on a well-formed footpath and then there’s a track that goes through the park down by the South Esk River, – the plipatumila in Palawa Kani. Or if you’re driving, the main thing that I would recommend is to drive out to wander at Clarendon Estate, it’s a mansion with beautiful gardens and it’s just extraordinarily grand. Everyone says it’s like it’s from Gone with the Wind!”
Cygnet
The Huon Valley is home to so many spots perfectly suited to a mindful stroll and Cygnet is a favourite thanks to its creative streetscape, sweet old shopfronts, farming backdrop and the sheltered Port Cygnet Bay.
“Cygnet has the ‘most complete’ village atmosphere in the Huon Valley, with an array of gorgeous shops, great cafes and eateries, an interesting mix of artisan makers and great community vibe,” says Caroline Davies Choi, an artist, curator, and founder and director of Cuckoo art gallery on Mart Street in Cygnet.
She suggests starting at the “beginning of town”, as you arrive from Hobart.
“Call in at Richard Stanley’s art gallery, before hitting Christine’s treasure-trove of Near & Far,” she says. “The IGA has a great selection if you fancy a picnic by the water, and if it’s market day, take a wander around the many local artisan and produce stalls.
“Econiche has lovely homewares, and you can't miss Cuckoo of course, we have a large range of the best local artists and craftspeople’s work on show! The Cygnet Gallery is always worth a look and you must try your luck in one of the op shops in town.
“I always recommend that people round out their visit with a gentle stroll along the wetlands for a spot of bird and boat watching.”
Ania Harvie and her husband Paul own Little Oak in Cygnet, a dreamy country cottage accommodation for short stays and a venue for intimate celebrations. She echoes some of Caroline’s tips.
“Cygnet is very easy to navigate as it centres around the main road, with all roads leading to Mary Street. Grab your coffee and a nice pastry at Poolish and continue on the same side, just past Red Velvet Lounge. Make your first stop at Artisans Hands – a hub of several artists where you can observe them at work and purchase their artwork. Continue past the roundabout onto Lymington Road and follow the footpath for about 15 minutes to a small point just past Jetty Road where you can enjoy views of Port Cygnet with your pastry.
“If you feel more energetic, continue another five minutes to the jetty. If not, make your way back, but this time stop by Ian Clare’s studio on the other side of Lymington Road, past the Port Cygnet Cannery. After that, continue towards the town and stop by Cuckoo. Then head towards the car park and turn left as you enter the car park area. Follow this road to George Street, turn right, and walk towards St Mary’s Church. Finally, make your way back through the park opposite the church. When you reach the main road, you should be exactly where you started. Now, your choice is to have lunch at Red Velvet Lounge or hunt for antiques at The Trove.”
Credit: Deborah Harmes / Alamy Stock Photo
Penguin
Kirby Edwards is a born-and-bred resident of the town that might have the cutest name in Tassie: Penguin. In 2024 she founded the People of Penguin project to showcase the stories of the residents and visitors to the town.
She describes the town as “a perfectly picturesque place with beautiful beaches, mountains, and farming all close to town, where you can always count on receiving a friendly ‘hello’ in the streets.”
One option is to do ‘Penguin in a Day’ with the Penguin Heritage Trail, or strip things back with Kirby’s top tip: a wander along the Penguin Foreshore Walking Track, a coastal riding and walking track that runs alongside the town and beaches all the way to Sulphur Creek, but you can explore for as long or as little as you like.
But first, coffee (and maybe some buttery, flaky pastries), she says. “Begin at one of the local coffee shops (like SIPS) then head to the scenic boardwalk that stretches along the coastline. As you walk, you’ll be surrounded by the natural beauty of the area, with the sound of waves and the fresh sea breeze.
“This coastal walk is not only a lovely way to get some exercise but also a perfect opportunity to capture beautiful photographs of the coastline, especially with the breathtaking backdrop of the water. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, it’s a must-do to fully appreciate the charm and beauty of Penguin.”
Alternative Tassie towns for a meaningful meander
Geeveston: Grab a coffee, a fetta gozleme and scoop up your favourite dried fruits and nuts at One Stop Geeveston before taking a self-guided walking tour of the town’s heritage spots with the Geeveston Circuit and Platypus Walk. Amble along the river (near the town’s excellent main playground) and you’ve got a fair chance of spotting a platy. Have a special lunch at the incredible Masaaki’s Sushi and swing by old school Wall of Lollies to some takeaway sweeties for your drive home.
Deloraine: Start at Frank & Lotti on Emu Bay Road for coffee, sourdough and fresh local produce for a picnic lunch. Head to the Deloraine Train Park, cross the road bridge and walk up the eastern side of the aptly named Meander River. Follow the sculpture trail to the Rotary Bridge, stopping halfway over the water for a sweet photo opportunity. Find a lovely lunch spot under a mature tree (mind the ducks!) before heading back along the western side of the river, past the public pool, until you get back your starting point. Then make your way slowly through the centre of town on Emu Bay Road, perusing excellent op shops like the Golden Opportunity Shop and galleries like Steve Howells’ Uniquely Deloraine and Fiona Francois. Don’t miss the textile art on display at Yarns.
Credit: Tourism Tasmania