Tassie Tales: Pieter van der Woude
Best known for spending time both in and on the water, this Hobartian is adamant that he shows tourists the most remote and pristine parts of the state.
I count myself as very lucky to have grown up in Tasmania. I was born in Smithton and raised in Penguin, and my work and passions have enabled me to enjoy most corners of this incredible island at one time or another.
I started out working as a policeman in the diving search-and-rescue area, which was very rewarding work. I then worked for more than two decades as an abalone diver, harvesting these large edible sea snails, which are a delicacy both here in Australia and around the world.
My next work experience took me even further south, loading and unloading ships for the Australian Antarctic Division, which opened my eyes even further to the beauty of southwest Tasmania within the Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour Marine Nature Reserve. This is a place with no infrastructure and no roads. It’s one of the most magical parts of the world that remains exactly as it was thousands of years ago.
This Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area is completely untouched by humans and is only accessible by foot, boat or seaplane. Discovering this corner of the state for myself gave me an idea for the next chapter of my life, which has been spent inviting visitors aboard my floating boat hotel to see this picturesque area for themselves.
Credit: Mark Daffey
I love being part of this sustainable tourism sector, which has minimal impact on this incredible corner of the world. Only a small percentage of Tasmanians might get to see this part of the state. It’s a place I felt in love with as soon as I was able to visit, and love taking tourists looking for an off-the-grid adventure to an area that is essentially the end of the earth – next stop Antarctica. I love seeing the awe on people’s faces when we take them down there and they can take in the natural beauty of the place.
Over the years working in this sector, we have run three custom-built boats, which double as floating luxury lodges that have been purpose-built for minimal-impact tourism. Luxury expedition vessel Odalisque 111 was launched in early 2023 and hosts all of our multi-day expeditions. The vessel has seven cabins, each with queen-sized beds and ensuites. My daughter Alice is part of the crew, which makes it really special for me.
Our vessel remains in the Port Davey area from December to May, and we use our seaplane on the city waterfront to take passengers down, which we reckon only adds to the adventure. This is inhospitable and inaccessible country, which people can enjoy by hiking the coastline or sitting back on the deck with a glass of Tasmanian wine and taking in the beauty around them.
I always tell tourists who have a day in Hobart they have to drive to the top of Kunanyi/Mt Wellington when they are here. From here, you can take in every corner of Hobart and see the land and the water, and the entire city. It’s incredible.
Of course, a joy flight from the city is also just magnificent. Another of my favourite spots to see is Trial Harbour on the West Coast, where there are fewer than 50 houses and mining relics. This is a beautiful place to exist off the grid. For those who haven’t seen Tasmania by air, flying in a seaplane over the Gordon River, following the canyon down as we fly close to the local landscape, is breathtaking.
The Museum of Old and New Art (Mona) is of course a must-see. I’m not sure that Tasmanians know how amazing Mona is and what this incredible facility does for our local economy. The founder, David Walsh, is an incredible visionary.
Most of my days start with a brisk walk around Battery Point and Salamanca area, or over to the wharf area. We inevitably stop for a coffee somewhere – like Maldini Italian Cafe on the corner of Salamanca. We like to get most of our local produce from the Farm Gate Market in Bathurst Street, or Salamanca Market – where the merchants grow what they sell, eating what’s in season.
If we venture out of an evening, we love wandering into Blue Eye Restaurant, which serves up fresh local seafood – this place specialises in consistently fantastic quality, and you can see the water from the restaurant. I also love the Wilderness Society in Salamanca. They have some great Tasmanian knick-knacks in there, like T-shirts with the red-tailed black cockatoo. You can always find something distinctly local, which makes it a great place to go when buying a gift for a mainland friend.
On a day off, I love spending the day in Bicheno, which delivers spectacular scenery, wilderness hikes and the bliss of sharing the water with no one but the occasional fisherman. It’s easy to get to by car, and I love wandering along Waubs Beach, which is one of the most beautiful beaches in the state. If I’m heading back to Penguin for a visit, I love staying at The Cove, which looks out over the cliffs. Watching the sunrise is like being at the end of the world. Of course, I still love diving and always will – but I just don’t get enough time to do it these days.
Pieter van der Woude is the founder and skipper of On Board Tasmanian Expedition Cruises. The tourism entrepreneur takes tourists and locals via seaplane and boat to some of the most remote and untouched landscapes in Tasmania.
