The adventure doesn’t stop at Mount Field
Steep bike runs, backcountry skiing, epic drives and laidback country towns turn the Derwent Valley into a choose-your-own-adventure destination for thrill seekers, cruisers and everyone in between.
Mount Field has long been the pick of Tassie destinations for seeing the fagus turn in autumn, drawing visitors from across the country and beyond to watch the deciduous native beech leaves shift from green to fiery reds before floating to the ground. What many visitors don’t realise is that from the forest floor it’s just 30 kilometres to Australia’s steepest downhill descent at Maydena Bike Park, around 100 kilometres to our steepest dam and even closer to Australia’s southernmost ski field, Mount Mawson.
Local business owners hope to encourage visitors to linger a little longer and explore more of what surrounds Mount Field, whether that involves hurtling down a mountainside on a bike or taking a slow, scenic drive. Their goal is simple: to pitch the wider Derwent Valley as an adventure capital built around choice.
Credit: Lynette Graham
Stay longer
Rachel Power, who owns Waterfalls Cafe and Gallery at the Mount Field Visitor Centre with her husband Greg, as well as the newly expanded Mt Field Retreat, has recently experienced some of the busiest summer weeks of her 13 years in the national park.
One piece of feedback comes up again and again: visitors wish they’d allowed more time.
Rachel has been working with local tourism operators and Destination Southern Tasmania on a plan that invites travellers to choose their own adventure in the Derwent Valley.
“For thrill seekers we’ve got the Gordon River Dam, the steepest dam in the southern hemisphere,” she says. “There’s incredible backcountry skiing and snowboarding, plus Maydena Bike Park with the steepest descent in the southern hemisphere. There’s a real thrill-seeker bundle here.”
“Then you’ve got weekend ramblers who want short walks, good food, good wine and a genuine chat with locals,” she continues. “And heritage hunters too. Willow Court is such a big part of the Derwent Valley’s history, and it’s exciting to see buildings being repurposed, like what’s happened with the Agrarian Kitchen.”
One piece of feedback comes up again and again: visitors wish they’d allowed more time.
Get behind the wheel
Rachel says the region is also perfectly suited to driving holidays. When the Power family gets downtime, they’re often out exploring the roads.
“My husband loves fast cars and great drives,” she says. “Car clubs and motorbike groups are a big opportunity here, not just from Hobart or the West Coast, but also the drive from here to the Gordon Dam. It’s hands down my favourite drive in the state.”
That idea plays out downriver in New Norfolk, where Belinda Smith is the licensee of The Bush Inn, the historic pub built in 1815 and recently revitalised. Belinda moved from Tasmania’s north nearly three years ago to take on the role and believes the region is ready for a fresh wave of attention.
“There are lots of good things happening here,” she says. “The more people realise we’re here, the busier it will get.”
“We’ve got the river, The Bush Inn of course,” she laughs. “It’s a close-knit community and a really beautiful place to live. There are distilleries, the salmon ponds, Mount Field, Maydena and plenty of great food options. There’s just so much for people to do.”
Like Rachel, Belinda sees driving holidays as a natural fit.
“People love cruising through the countryside, and we see lots of car clubs stopping in for lunch,” she says. “There’s a lot of opportunity for more of that.”
Her personal favourite is taking the back roads.
“I love the hills and the quieter routes, especially through Hamilton and the heritage towns that way. It’s beautiful.”
Falling for the fagus
Back at Mount Field, Rachel is gearing up for her favourite season in one of Tasmania’s oldest and most diverse national parks.
“The best thing about Mount Field is that no matter when you come, there’s always something new,” she says. “I’m a fungi fan, so autumn mushroom hunting is one of my favourite things to do.”
“The first autumn rains really bring the fungi out, with incredible colours, reds, greens, blues and orange corals that look like they belong underwater. There are tens of thousands of varieties and we get people coming here specifically to study them.”
Then there’s the fagus itself.
“You drive up the mountain and the fagus is turning, which is just spectacular,” Rachel says. “It’s one of the few places where you can experience autumn colour right beside the car, or hike up to Tarn Shelf and see entire mountainsides glowing, reflected in the tarns.”
For many visitors, it’s only after they leave that they realise Mount Field wasn’t the destination at all, it was the gateway.
Derwent Valley trips for all sorts
Thrill seekers
Take a deep breath before descending on a mountain bike at Maydena Bike Park or hitting the slopes at Mount Mawson. Ride it, ski it, then do it again.
Car cruisers
Follow Rachel’s favourite drive from Mount Field to the dramatic Gordon Dam. Pick up a takeaway meal and coffee from Waterfalls Cafe and enjoy lunch with a view.
Weekend ramblers
Slow things right down. From Hobart, stop at the Black Swan Bookshop and Cafe in New Norfolk for a book, coffee and chat. Visit the New Norfolk Market on Saturdays, walk the accessible Russell Falls track, then settle in for a relaxed dinner at The Bush Inn.
Heritage hunters
Base yourself in New Norfolk. Start with a Willow Court tour, dine at the Agrarian Kitchen, then spend the next day browsing the Drill Hall Emporium, op shops and antique stores along the main street.